David Karpinski, VP of Sales and Marketing for Taylor Made Products®, explains, “We see a lot of canvas ruined because water collects in areas where the fabric isn’t properly supported. The water pools in these low spots, forming an idea environment for dirt, mold and mildew to congregate. In addition, the weight of the water puddles strains the canvas – a situation that can lead to premature canvas failure.
Karpinski continues, “Your boat’s canvas needs to be supported by adjustable poles or a well-made framework assembly and securely fastened to the boat to make sure the top or cover is taut to allow the water to run off quickly, kind of like a tent”.
Cleaning the Fabric
Taking care of canvas isn’t hard; just add this simple task to your boat’s maintenance routine.
Most canvas experts recommend cleaning the canvas while it’s on the boat, because most of the sections of fabric are rather large and ungainly; however, you can toss smaller pieces of canvas in a washing machine (on the “delicate” cycle), if you like. Don’t put marine canvas in the dryer; hang the canvas on a clothesline or reinstall on the boat to let the fabric air dry.
The cleaning drill is essentially a matter of using stiff brush to remove loose dirt and debris from the canvas. Hose the canvas with fresh water, then, gently scrub the fabric with a soft brush and a gentle soap (Ivory Snow®, Dreft® or Woolite®). Allow time for the cleaning solution to soak into the fabric, scrub again, and then, rinse with cold (or lukewarm) fresh water until no soap remains on the canvas. Let the canvas air dry.
Some canvas manufacturers suggest using a bit of chlorine bleach to get rid of stubborn stains; others absolutely forbid using bleach. Your best bet is to refer to the information from the supplier/maker of your boat’s brand of canvas.
After a thorough cleaning (or every few years), you may need to re-treat the canvas to restore its water-repellent properties. This isn’t difficult; the authorities in this field advocate a spray-on multi-faceted fabric protection formula that is easy to apply by the do-it-yourself boater.
Windows
The windows in most marine canvas enclosures are made of clear vinyl or plastic. Take great pains not to use “window cleaners” on vinyl or plastic windows. The ammonia will damage the vinyl/plastic, causing the windows to become cloudy or translucent, and possibly turn a sickly yellow color, rather than remaining transparent.
Also, the vinyl/plastic cleaning protocols vary by manufacturer; some advise simply rinsing the window and wiping it off with your (clean) hand, some promote using mild soap and a soft cloth, and others advocate aftermarket plastic cleaners. Again, consult your boat enclosure supplier or manufacturer for the best method to clean their specific brands of vinyl/plastic windows.
Snaps
Let’s not forget the often-neglected snaps that hold the canvas on your boat. These little fasteners do a lot of work for little recognition.
Periodically treat both halves of the snaps with a dedicated snap lubricant or a drop of water-displacing oil to prevent rust buildup, a particularly bothersome condition in saltwater environments.
Storage
Stow canvas when it’s 100% dry; don’t put the canvas away wet. Most folks fold the canvas, others prefer to roll the fabric – either way is fine – just don’t fold the windows or they will form permanent creases (and eventually crack).
Other Items of Interest
Put the top(s) down if you plan to do some high-speed cruising or are going to trailer your boat.
If you can see daylight through the canvas seams from inside the boat, or if the fabric develops tears or weak spots, get the canvas repaired immediately, before a small imperfection becomes a big problem.
Invest in the best canvas you can afford; some say to figure on spending a certain percentage of the cost of your boat on top-shelf canvas – boating isn’t inexpensive and canvas can protect your boating investment, not to mention add to the boat’s resale value when you’re ready to move up. Y |